How to Make Your Own Homemade Carp and Catfishing Baits
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006
by Tim Richardson
Baitbigfish.com
'Homemade' can imply 'simple or
basic', but when applied to making carp or catfish baits, this subject certainly
deserves far more explanation for optimum results and the best ever catches!
To begin with, your bait really has just one main function; to get the fishing hook into the
carp’s / catfish's mouth, so giving the opportunity for it to be hooked! To achieve this,
the bait needs either:
·
To emit a
recognizable carp food signal, or stimulate carp curiosity.
·
Be representative
of, or a mimic of a natural food source.
Carp are curious and will examine any new potential food item they come
across. Whether paste / dough or boilies, it needs to be resilient enough to be
put on the hook or ‘hair’, for it to withstand the fishes’ attention and enter
the mouth.
‘Boilie’ baits are the more scientifically proven kind that have evolved
from the days of the ‘Specials’ baits. These were often based on ground - up
dog, cat, fish foods and farm animal foods in pellet, biscuit and tinned form.
They were bound together with eggs, and fished as pastes. In the 1950 to the
early 1970’s these were often fished ‘free lined’ with big hooks, with no
weight, and individual baits could be the size of an orange, in order to deter
bait-whittling smaller fish!
Other common ‘kitchen’ type ingredients were also incorporated to enhance
paste effectiveness like minced tinned fish, curry powder, bottled condiment
sources, yeast powders, milk powders, grated cheese, salt and pepper, herbs,
yeast extract, cake baking flavours, whole - wheat flour, corn flour, bird
foods, ground fish meal pellets, and animal / pet food pellets, beans, peas,
seeds, and many food oils have been used; many of which have proved themselves.
Many, in original or extract form, are still used in baits today.
Baits were originally boiled to allow them to be thrown much further out
into the water, as carp moved out in response to increased angling pressure and
tackle improvements. The fact that nearly every other fish that swims with carp
can eat boilies, has shown that the ‘hard skinned boilie idea didn’t really
work. In fact many species, like big roach, tench, bream, catfish etc, seem to
use boilies as part of their staple diets and their improved growth rates can
attest to this fact.
The ideal ‘average’ size established for boilies used to be a recommended
15 millimeters in diameter, although
today highly pressured waters often see better results on much smaller sizes
and some do very well on even 35 millimeter ones as have done in the UK and
France.
If you were an average carp angler, fishing in around 1980 in the UK,
then you were most likely still experimenting with many of these ingredients,
to give you an ‘edge’ over those pesky carp! However, there were an advanced
minority, who kept the latest bait and rig secret developments private among
themselves, and pockets of carp anglers developed different edges and formulas
which could totally out - fish the old ‘specials’.
This was because they were based upon, and maximized, scientifically
proven data, on the carp dietary preference mechanism! Understanding the
scientifically proven carp data, on the carp’s dietary preference mechanism and
baits designed on this basis, resulted in more highly nutritionally balanced
baits. So giving carp the maximum energy and dietary requirements, for the
least cost in effort!
The real missing ingredient, for very many carp anglers, even today, is
in understanding why a carp eats any of these carp boilie foods at all! And why
carp can actually prefer some baits to the exclusion of all the rest!
This is an important area I feel, that has been neglected, leaving many
modern carp anglers with less understanding of the baits available to him and
how best to choose how and when to use them, because this can be a very
important ‘edge’ in itself! Also I feel it is as important to really understand
why your shop-bought bait catches and doesn’t catch in different circumstances,
seasonal and weather conditions, and different at types of waters.
Of course it is not vital to know, or understand these things to catch
carp. But only the most exceptional outstanding anglers catch big carp
consistently, using a normal number of fishing hours to achieve this. Compared
to the ‘average’ majority, who are usually those having taken up carp fishing
in the last 5 to 15 years or so and often to struggle to maintain big fish
catches consistency all year round unlike much more experienced and ‘bait wise’
anglers.
So I feel it is important to help explain how to become more satisfied
and consistent in your carp fishing, because these days it can be a large
sacrifice, both in time and money, to pursue this sport. I believe, especially
newer carp anglers, need impartial guidance when it comes to the importance of
bait (often a complete afterthought!), when frequently thousands of pounds have
been spent on carp fishing tackle!
An introduction to the boilie
ingredients: Boilies are
usually made using dry mixture ingredients of either 500 grammes or 1 pound. Using
a combination of natural and synthetic materials, bait may be bound together
usually with eggs, to form dough balls or shapes. The most effective size and
dimensions vary depending upon your fishing situation, and could be 8 to 30 millimeters
plus. (Never underestimate how fish preferences alter over time and even at
different times during a session!)
It pays to make different sizes, shapes, and densities boilies: this
helps take away a ‘danger’ reference point, i.e., it stops the fish recognizing
it and fools the carp into eating the hook bait with the hook (which is the
point, isn’t it?!)
Boilies have conventionally been and are often labeled in terms of the
food group which forms the majority percentage of the bait, i.e.:
Milk protein (whole milk and it’s derivatives)
Carrier carbohydrate (soya flour / semolina)
Bird foods (seed mixes, rearing foods and extracts, etc)
Fishmeal (ground trout pellets, oily fish meals, crustacean meals,
seafood extracts, etc)
Meat meals (beef, poultry, pork flakes, hydrolyzed feather meal, etc)
And so on…
Of course, these labels are misleading to some folks these days because
baits have become more complex. The
benefits of mixing the nutrients of different food groups in the same bait mix,
means there may be no single food group in any given bait!
So how do you choose which
ingredients to use, which ratios of these to use and why? The first step is
commonly practicality; can you put these things together into a dough or paste,
to produce a boilie mix that will bind together and roll well? To produce a boilie from various ingredients without
instructions on ratios of each ingredient takes some preliminary testing. So it
is wise to start by using one large hen’s egg (or similar), mixed with a small
amount of any liquid ingredients, to confirm that your test dry ingredients
when mixed actually bind and roll well into balls to make boiled baits. If not,
add more egg, a small amount of vegetable oil or ‘binding material’.
Ideally start by putting the carp’s dietary needs first when making bait,
and begin with the bulk ‘whole protein food’ content of ingredients at
25 % to 50 % of your preliminary 100 % dry mixture. Such
examples used could be combinations of some of the following: caseins,
lactalbumin, fish meals, meat meals, whey protein.
Usually you will require a binding material to hold the protein food
together in the bait. This may require using dry binding ingredients like
semolina, wheat gluten, wheat flour, soya flour etc for up to 50 % of the
mix, necessary for many types of coarse bird food meals, shellfish meals, meat
and fish meals. Different bait materials will alter this approximate ratio, but
use the ratio that rolls first! and increase the protein content from there
(Using eggs / egg powder to bind your bait, adds a great nutritional added
profile as a complete protein food.)
Examples of binders:
Hen’s eggs
Egg powder
Whey gel
Bread crumbs
Full fat ‘yellow’ semolina
Maize meal
Corn starch
Potato starch
White ground rice flour
Wheat flour
Wheat gluten
Potato gluten
Full fat soya flour
Ground seeds
Ground ‘Sluis CLO’
Ground ‘EMP’
Ground ‘CeDe’
Ground ‘Red band’ pigeon seed mix
Beef gelatin based binding products
Some of the most effective attraction of your bait comes from the water
soluble fraction of particular ingredients used. Ingredients with this
characteristic content could constitute 10 % up to 30 % of the mix. Making
a resilient practical boilie mix may require the addition or reduction of only
one ingredient. Some of the best baits you will ever discover are made by this
trial and error process. The solubility of ingredients is especially
recommended if an ingredient has high protein value, such as sodium and calcium
caseinates, calf milk replacers, whole milk powder, yeast powder, hydrolyzed
fish and shellfish proteins etc...
Some are used at much lower levels, e.g. 0.2 % to 6 % ; e.g.,
hydrolyzed fish protein, hydrolyzed spirulina extract, squid extract, anchovy extract, green
crab / lobster / scallop / shrimp / oyster / baby clam
extracts, green lip mussel extract etc. These are also effective as most are
extremely quickly and efficiently digested with immediate benefits that the
carp can feel.
I prefer to fresh freeze baits, or ‘air dry’ them naturally, or preserve
them in a flavour / amino acid / supplement compound, rather than
using a chemical preservative in the bait like ascorbic acid.
Carp require oils (essential fatty acids) but only in small amounts e.g.,
up to 5 % of your total dry mix. Oily fish meals and shellfish meals are already
rich in these, as are flax seed, hemp seed, sesame seeds, salmon oil, cod liver
oil, crustacean oil, etc. To meet minimum carp dietary requirements try adding
perhaps around 1 milliliter to 3 milliliters of a good quality nutritional oil per
egg, (maximum,) depending on oil level in the dry mix.
At times of year when water temperatures drop below 55 Fahrenheit /
13 Degrees Celsius, it’s sensible to drop the oil levels used or use emulsified
oil. It also pays to reduce some of your ‘whole protein food’ content and
substitute it with e.g., 3 ounces of wheat germ; this is a proven method of
improving the biological conversion of your bait inside the carp by making your
bait more ‘carp digestible’
Carp love to crunch food and in doing so send out all kinds of feeding
signals to other carp, allowing attractive food particles to pass out of the
gills.
Nutritional ingredients can be used for this effect, e.g. bird foods –
‘Robin Red’, ‘Red Factor’,‘Nectarblend’, Ground ‘Red Band’ pigeon food,
prepared ground mixed nuts and seeds; prepared tiger nuts and hempseed, millet,
egg - biscuit myna - bird rearing food, niger seeds, ‘RRR’, ground birdseeds
‘Ce De’, ‘PTX’, ground insects, dried larvae, coarse kelp meal etc.
Also used are crushed oyster shell and eggshell. These also allow
bait to release attractors faster, putting more out to attract carp quicker and
more effectively, especially in lower water temperatures. They also help the
fish to eat more bait by helping them pass it through their systems faster.
Test each individually because their properties vary. Use, e.g.,
0.5 ounces per pound for shell through to e.g., 2 ounces per pound of course kelp meal, to e.g.,
3 ounces per pound of ‘Robin Red’, ground birdseed e.g., 6 ounces per
pound, up to 8 ounces per pound of ‘Nectar Blend’.
Here are some examples of recognized ‘nutritional’ bird food ingredients:
‘PTX’
‘Robin Red’
‘Red Factor’
‘Nectar Blend’
‘RRR’ Spanish peppers
‘Prosecto Insectivorous’
‘Sluis’ CLO
‘Sluis’Universal
‘Sluis’ Mynhah bird food
‘CeDe’
‘EMP’
‘Red Venom’ carophyll red liquid pigment attractor (www.ccmoore.com)
Other ingredients are used to change resilience, texture, attractor
leak-off,
e.g., milk powders, whole milk, ‘Vitamealo’ at, e.g., 4 ounces per
pound),
or in a very soluble bait to bind it ‘tighter’ e.g., whey gel at 3 ounces
per pound, or make it harder, e.g. blood powder at e.g. 4 ounces per
pound, egg albumin at e.g., 2 ounces per pound, whole egg powder at, e.g.,
3 ounces per pound, or whey gel, e.g., 1 ounce per pound.
To avoid silt / to make baits more buoyant, include ingredients like
sodium caseinate, e.g. 5 ounces per pound, or shrimp meal, e.g. 3 ounces
per pound or krill meal at e.g., 3 ounces per pound.
Vitamins and minerals are great attractors too, being essential for carp
health and growth. Many of the above extracts supply these, but they leach out
of bait very fast. Adding black strap molasses, betaine hydrochloride to the
mix and as liquid soak really help.
Other ingredients can be added in
very low levels to enhance your bait, or give it an ‘extra special attractive
note’ e.g., 1 teaspoon per pound, of powdered taste enhancer, sea salt, or
sweeteners like sodium saccharin and fishing company proprietary brands liquid
and powdered sweeteners with no ‘chemical back taste’.
When you
mix new ingredients together always test your mixture first. Try using one egg
as a binder, to see if you have your ratios right for practical binding and
rolling purposes. Always prepare your wet ingredients first and add dry ingredients
to the wet ones gradually as you become accustomed to the ingredients you’re
using, this part will become simple!
You can
refine your bait’s ‘nutritional profile’ content, attraction properties and
additional practical physical properties, as you become more familiar with
getting a practical bait together; that works right for you and catches carp
consistently! (Big ones preferably!You will soon find it’s very easy to make
all kinds of baits, and your secret bait armory will fill you with confidence
and your photograph albums with big carp!
(Warning; this article is protected by copyright.)
By Tim Richardson N.D.C.H. The ‘thinking man’s fishing
author’ and bait guru.
For more information see:
http://www.baitbigfish.com
Tim is a leading big fish angler with many incredible
catches to his name. He is also a nationally recognised carp and catfish bait
guru in the